Smithsonian Magazine
At the time I was there, the theater was closed to most visitors (it
is now open to the public from April 1 through October 31), and I wanted
to take full advantage of my access. "Go ahead. Have a good, long
look," said Christian Baulez, Versailles' chief conservator.
On the way out, Baulez, who has worked at the former royal palace for
four decades, locked the gate with a heavy iron key. "From time to
time, you have to visit a spot like the theater when there's no one else
around to give the place a chance to trigger an emotional reaction," he
said. "You're thinking about other things, then all of a sudden, you're
totally surprised. It's a state of grace, an aura you sense—even after
40 years here."
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